I think 'lahn' and 'lame', which is derived from French for armor and,
possibly, 'tinsel' fabric - are the same type of material: the metal
fibre is always weft, warp is either of cotton or silk.

Luba D Nurse
textile conservator and woven textiles designer and weaver in the past




On 24 February 2011 15:09, Madeleine Roberg <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I am looking for information on "armor cloth"  that is listed in nineteenth
> century regalia catalogues.
>
> In 1895 the Chicago Daily Tribune there is an article about a
> parade/ball/carnival "Ball Ruled By Rex" which includes the following
> reference to armor cloth: "As the procession swung out a shrill cry was
> heard, repeated again and again, as a score of eager little fellows in
> silver armor cloth and crimson garments rushed out to every part of the
> house..."
>
> Using google books I found a reference to armor cloth in 1890: "The material
> in question is a fabric woven from lahn and cotton threads. The appraiser
> reports that metal constitutes its component of chief value, and duty was
> assessed upon it at 45 per cent...."  "A sample of the merchandise was
> submitted to expert witnesses, with a view to ascertaining the relative
> value and quantity of the metal and cotton, and from their testimony we find
> that merchandise is known as 'armor cloth,' of which cotton forms the chief
> component part in quantity and metal in value."
> (http://tinyurl.com/4zv3l9e).
>
> I would appreciate any information or book recommendations for armor cloth,
> lahn, or nineteenth century regalia.
>
> Thank you.
>
> --
> Madeleine Roberg
>
> Research Graduate Assistant
> International Quilt Study Center & Museum
> 1523 N. 33rd Street, Quilt House
> Dept. of Textiles, Clothing & Design
> University of Nebraska-Lincoln
> Lincoln, NE 68583-0838
> Phone: 402-472-6549
>