Thanks Jennifer- this sounds like a great method to try in the future
for cleaning samplers with just slight dye bleed in water.
Unfortunately, the dye on the silk embroidery of this sampler still
releases quite readily in water alone (although sadly not on the wool)
which is why I haven't tested different pH solutions on the thread-
I'm not sure that any difference would be clearly evident.  However,
perhaps something to experiment with (on fiber samples) without any
danger to the wool.

Best,
Kate


On 6/26/10, Jennifer Barnett <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Tricky. I have not had much experience with embroidery on wool which does
> indeed limit the pH possibilities as far as treatment. You do not mention
> whether pH tests were carried out on samples of thread to determine at which
> (approx.) pH the dye runs. This is vital to know.
>
> Have you though of using a vaccuum table? Some do not like the appearance of
> the finished result as the embroidery tends to stand up too much from the
> fabric (strong suction on the fabric).
>
> I have had the experience of threads on a yellowed and lightly soiled 1940s
> cotton sampler that tests showed ran in neutral detergents, acidic and
> alkaline solutions and just a little in water alone. I was sharing a
> workshop with a paper conservator and saw how paper was nearly always dried
> between blotters that were sandwiched between thick woollen felt then topped
> with a piece of multiplex wood with weights on top of the whole lot. This
> was to maximise contact of the blotters with the paper object to pick any
> migrating colouring matter and to ensure that it dried perfectly flat.
>
> Not having a vaccuum table at hand, I decided to 'wash' the sampler in water
> with added CMC to prevent soil deposition, rinse thoroughly then dry it
> using the paper object method (overnight). Fantastic result. The embroidery
> was not flattened at all and there were no haloes of dye on the sampler,
> only on the blotter, and then not so much. The weighting system retained the
> shape of the sampler beautifully as well. While not as clean as it could be,
> it looked refreshed and very natural, if that is the right word. Pinning out
> and applying weighted glass plates always leave their marks on cellulose
> based samplers. Pinning out wool would be a very delicate operation in any
> case due to its stretchiness.
>
> This drying method also saved a lot of time (pinning, adjusting pinning as
> it dries, hovering with hair dryer in hand), which, despite what many of my
> old colleagues may still think, is an important consideration, even more so
> in private practice. This notion became even more important during my
> experience of working 18 years in the Netherlands where many owners of
> samplers were outraged at the cost of treating 'a bit of old rag' or
> 'something that didn't cost me anything'. End of short rant.
>
> Hope this helps in some way.
>
> Jennifer Barnett
>
> ex-textile conservator/lecturer
> now translator Dutch-Eng and editor/proof-reader
>
> 'Tournebise'
> La Goutte, rte de Dancé
> FR -  Bully 42260
> tel  +33 4 7765 2011
> [log in to unmask]
>
> http:/www.proz.com/profile/847667
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 23 Jun 2010, at 20:53, Kate Sahmel wrote:
>
> > I am working on a 19th century English sampler with silk embroidery on
> > a wool ground.  The sampler is in good/fair condition, but there is
> > extensive dye bleed into the wool ground, mostly from the green and
> > dark pink silk embroidery threads.  Testing has shown that the dye is
> > still fugitive on the green silk thread, but so far none of the
> > aqueous solutions tested moves the dye on the wool.
> >
> > I am considering trying to raise the pH slightly to see if that helps
> > to release the dye, but I am not sure how much I can raise the pH
> > without damaging the fibers.  Unfortunately the dye bleed has likely
> > been there a long time (40 years?), but I would still like to try a
> > few more things before giving up.  Has anyone had success with
> > removing dye bleed on wool?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Kate Sahmel
> > Andrew W. Mellon Fellow in Costume and Textiles Conservation
> > Philadelphia Museum of Art
> > [log in to unmask]
> > 215-684-7578
> >
>