Recently I was brought a 19th century wedding costume by a curator to dress
on a mannequin.  Currently it is in fair and stable condition overall with
exception to it's lining.  The lining, fabricated of weighted silk, is
shattering and too fragile to with stand exhibition.  Embellishments such as
gathered pleated rucheing and bows are secured to the perimeter of the hem.
This dress has a strong provenance, it was worn by a prominent St. Paul
family member to her wedding, and is a beautiful example of sumptuous 19th
century dress making.

The lining needs to be stabilized.  However, because of 3-dimensional form
and large size I don't feel that encasement with stable-Tex is a good
choice.  Especially since encasement would require us to disassemble the
lining entirely, encase each component, and then reunite.  We would in
effect be structurally altering the garment.  Also, the silk will continue
to breakdown due to a yearly exhibition schedule. Eventually  I fear we will
end up with stable-Tex bags of dust.  So in the end what am I really saving/
protecting?

I am proposing to remove the existing shattered lining and replace it with a
suitable fabric similar in fiber, color, and weave structure to the
original.  The original embellishments will be removed from what remains of
the original lining and secured to the replacement one.  All work will
imitate the original as much as possible.  While this treatment requires
many hours we will have a more stable costume for yearly exhibition.

I am wondering if anyone else has come across these needs and issues?  Has
anyone else felt compelled to replace linings due to  structural
instability?

Thank you.


Ann Frisina
Textile Conservator
Minnesota Historical Society
345 Kellogg Blvd. W.
St. Paul, MN. 55104

651 297-5490