Re: area rugs that present a tripping hazard

Tripping hazards are most common with rugs that are lying on carpets.
However, assuming that all of these rugs are against hard surfaces...

The first thing to do is to position them such that the flattest, less
buckling edges are in the highest traffic points (i.e. where there are
transitions onto the carpet).  Most rugs can be blocked out after they
are washed to further improve their ability to lie flat.

Use a gripping type underlay such as Durahold pad from No-Muv
Corporation (this is the most common pad sold in higher-end Oriental
Rug Galleries).  It is laminated with a rubber surface that contacts
the floor and a ridged, textured synthetic fiber upper layer that grips
the rug quite well.  The rugs can be pulled tight on the pad to help
eliminate ripples and buckles.  The pad should be cut such that the
edge of the carpet comes down to the floor.

Along the sections of greatest concern (usually not along the entire
perimeter), it is possible to sew velcro.  For the other face of the
velcro, either sew the velcro onto the pad - or, though this is not
preferred, cut the pad back a little and use adhesive-backed velcro
directly onto the floor.  Carpet tape works well for a time.
Eventually it will lift in areas and must be replaced.  The adhesive
transfers to the rug and to the floor and is difficult to remove.  It
is also sometimes difficult to get a second piece of carpet tape to
stick as well when it is applied to replace an older tape.

There are thin pads with adhesive on both sides (available in most
carpeting stores - not in Oriental rug stores).  These can be used
between rugs and pads and rugs and floors - these hold very well.
However, the adhesive transfers to the rug surface and the floor
surface and is difficult or impossible to remove.  These are used as a
last resort (usually for the frail and elderly) and preferably only in
strategic areas.

Stiffening the edges of the carpets can help.  Leather or vinyl strips
can be sewn along the edges (check at Chatalbash or Nabavian Oriental
rug supplies in New York for availability).  Generally this is done to
prevent the edge from rolling under due to tightening of cotton wefts
on newer rugs - but it also renders the edge less "floppy" and
straightens it out so that it can lie close to the floor.

Solutions used in the past have also included: sewing strips of weights
along the edge (usually flat lead about 1.5 inch x 2 " sandwiched in
muslin), and sewing large metal snaps at intervals - but the other face
of the snap has to be fastened to the floor.  The snaps could also be
sewn to the rug pad.

In the most sensitive areas of  highest traffic and greatest fragility
of the the carpet, consider placing a clear vinyl carpet protector as a
"bridge" over that area.  There is always a great deal of resistance to
this solution - however, just remember that older rugs  (made prior to
WWII) can never be duplicated - the cultures have been altered
irreversibly.  So preservation needs have to be balanced with aesthetic
appeal.  The protector could be put in place only during touring hours
so as not impact the residents of the house.  Also, the practice is
increasing of replacing precious older carpets in historic homes (which
are just being worn out and used up) with new rugs (there are many
tasteful possibilities).

Hope this helps,

David Walker
Talisman Restoration, Inc.

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