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Subject:
From:
Albertina Cogram <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Textile Conservators <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Tue, 13 Jul 2010 14:21:40 +0100
Content-Type:
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Greetings all,
I had the following public enquiry. I was wondering if anyone out there could help this enquirer to find a weaver who could reproduce the scarf for her.
Thank you.
 

Albertina Cogram
Textile Conservation Section
Victoria and Albert Museum
London
SW7 2RL.
Tel: 020 7942 2123
Fax: 020 8942 2092
[log in to unmask]

>>> Miriam Farris <[log in to unmask]> 16:53 30/06/10 >>>
To Whom It May Concern:

I am looking for someone to reproduce a dresser scarf for our historic
house museum at Carl Sandburg Home National Historic Site (Flat Rock, NC).
The scarf is 41" x 21", silk, and jacquard woven with dragon and floral
designs. Weaver Alice Schlein looked at the garment and gave the following
assessment:

"The patterned cloth is hemmed on all four sides and is lined on the
reverse with a lightweight plainweave fabric. The structure appears to me
to be lampas, and the ground warp is approximately 64 epi and pattern warp
approximately 32 epi; total epi 96 epi. It would have to be sett at 14" in
the reed to allow for turn-unders and take-up. Therefore 1344 heddles would
be required, according to my calculations.

The fiber content appears to be silk, but that is yet to be confirmed.
Ground warp is fine black, and pattern warp beige. Ground structure is
plain weave, and it appears that there are two pattern wefts working in any
given section, but the colors of these pattern wefts change from time to
time according to the requirements of the pattern. A single pattern repeat
appears to be about 12 or 15" in length, but the color rotation does not
repeat, so the actual repeat would be longer."

She has photos of the scarf and more information on her blog at:
http://weaverly.typepad.com/weaverly/2010/02/page/2/.

Could you recommend someone who might be able to reproduce this item?  Also, since we
have virtually no provenance for this object, any information you might have
would be much appreciated.

Sincerely,
Miriam Farris

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