Thanks Jennifer! I am overwhelmed by the great responses I have received.
There is so much to be done, and I am the only staff person. I am not one
to wash antique quilts unless they are really dirty and that is the only
solution (and then I send them out to someone who knows what he is doing) .
. . we are going to set up the vacuuming system.

At 10:51 AM 8/25/03, you wrote:
>Hello Textile & Costume Caretakers,
>8/19 try again
>I read Margarat's reply and agree but would like to explain & suggest
>alternatives.
>I have a few written handouts or a toll free #.
>
>Water or drycleaning should only be a last resort. So don't for 5
>years...until a conservator agrees. Many were never intended to be
>washed and haven't yet and the finish is perfect.....
>I recently identified 500 costume objects at a new forming historic
>home to be terribly aggravated.  The home had been untouched for 100
>years and objects in the attic floor had soot issues. Of course the
>newbie washed them (in a wash bath) but yet now they are 50% less
>valuable,, even crepe gauze, oh my....
>
>Recommended Steps for cloth stabilization.
>Air, Sun or seperate then vacuum and
>roll or fold with cotton as a rH buffer.
>
>What that means, more like our Grandma's cleaned annually.
>Try to hang comforts, coverlets & wool blankets in groups, then pieced
>quilts & applique... Sort first. Treat by type....
>Hang quilts or musty clothing on clothes line indoors 6-12"
>apart....Let hang for one week, lay white paper on ground underneath to
>test. After drying time tamp each piece. Walk through middle and
>examine visually for stains or specks. If you see puffs or black fine
>powder dust, stop, as it has mildew in the batting. Needs seperated.
>Save & do seperately in another space to isolate spread.
>
>If you find any little shells dropping out of wool objects when you
>unroll, seperate as these have dermestid beetle larvae issues... but
>water will not cure. These need dried and vacuumed and later heat
>treated and vacuumed.
>
>Usually pieced cotton quilts have slight mildew but that is not an
>issue. Let dry one week , lay on large tables and use a screen to cover
>applique or piecing and a canister vacuum ( brush atachment with
>cheesecloth wrapped around it) (I prefer a Rainbow water vacuum or
>HEPA) and vacuum surface... then roll with old cotton sheets or product
>Margaret recommended then store on metal shelf rolled. Do not stack if
>possible. More shelving....more sheets or old towels or tissue.
>Judy, If you would like to get more info., call.
>Toll free 1-866-575-9296
>Jennifer Hein
>Midwest Preservation Conservator & Textile specialist
>
>
> > > Pennsylvania Quilt & Textile Museum
>in Lititz, PA (Lancaster County). This
> >
>quilts, clothing, and other
> > textiles.
>built a collection of about 50 additional quilts and some smaller
>pieces,
>planning a new exhibit, documenting and photographing quilts,
> >
>My question to the list is any advice for a newbie to the world of
>museums and conservation.
>conservation, storage, etc. Any tips welcome!
>- what is the best way to get rid of the musty odors
> > of some of our new acquisitions without harming the fabrics?
>(
>process of following guidelines from the American Textiles
> > Museum for freezing several wool pieces in case there are any moth
>eggs in  them. We are "critter-free" right now and want to stay that
>way!
>
>Naw no historic site ever is... Sometimes freezing worsens mold issues,
>Comforts & quilts are best heat treated in the sun or air... Please
>call.
>
>www.lititzjunction.com.
>
>Reply from
>--Jennifer Hein
>Preservation Consultant
>Historic Object Conservator of Textiles, Leather & Ethnography
>PO Box 90379, Indianapolis, IN 46290
>317-575-9296
>
>
>
> > PLEASE, PLEASE DO NOT USE WATER TO CLEAN UNLESS YOUR WATER QUALITY IS
> > EXCELLENT AND YOU TEST FOR WATER FASTNESS FIRST!
> >