Hello Joanne, I have examined notes that belonged to a family of dyers and textile-printers in northern Germany. One of them mentioned finishing silk fabrics with Traganth (Tragant), which gave them a shiny surface. It is a gum that is collected from several plants belonging to the Astragalus family, Astragalus gummifer L., for example. He used it during the second half of the 19th century. Greetings from Hamburg! Dominique Loeding Altonaer Museum ________________________________ Stiftung Historische Museen Hamburg Altonaer Museum für Kunst und Kulturgeschichte Textilrestaurierung Dominique Loeding Museumstraße 23 22765 Hamburg Tel. 040 428 135 2158 Fax 040 428 135 1913 [log in to unmask]<[log in to unmask]> www.altonaermuseum.de Von: Textile Conservators [mailto:[log in to unmask]] Im Auftrag von Joanne Hackett Gesendet: Montag, 6. März 2017 19:16 An: [log in to unmask] Betreff: Coatings on fabrics - literature? Hello all, Recently we have encountered two dresses with very heavily coated silk organza – both have yellowed and have heavy staining. Nothing we tried made any impression on the staining, which I assume to be thoroughly trapped in the finish/coating on the silk. (Neither dress could be washed due to fugitive decorations.) Does anyone know of any research that’s been done on the history of textile finishing? I’m particularly interested in 20th century finishing but anything would be of interest. Is organza usually finished with starch? Or is it a gum/starch mixture or something else entirely? All suggestions welcome. Joanne Hackett ACR Head of Textile and Fashion Conservation Victoria and Albert Museum Art Fund Museum of the Year 2016 Winner Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear Until 12 March 2017 at V&A South Kensington Sponsored by Agent Provocateur and Revlon Book now on Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear<https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/undressed-a-brief-history-of-underwear> See the exhibition for free if you join as a V&A Member vam.ac.uk/members Game Plan: Board Games Rediscovered 8 October 2016 - 23 April 2017 at V&A Museum of Childhood Admission free Keep in touch Sign up for V&A e-newsletters vam.ac.uk/content/email/signup Become a fan on Facebook.com/VictoriaandAlbertMuseum Follow us on Twitter.com/V_and_A ________________________________ This message is intended solely for the use of the individual or organisation to whom it is addressed. It may contain privileged or confidential information. If you have received this message in error, please notify the originator immediately. If you are not the intended recipient, you should not use, copy, alter, or disclose the contents of this message. All information or opinions expressed in this message and/or any attachments are those of the author and are not necessarily those of The Victoria and Albert Museum or its affiliates. The Victoria and Albert Museum accepts no responsibility for loss or damage arising from its use, including damage from virus. Victoria and Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL, Tel: 0207 942 2000 ________________________________