External Email - Exercise Caution

Apparently quilts of glazed wool are housed in a number of American collections, including the Smithsonian: https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/nmah_556436

 There are four objects in the Met’s textile collection, where they are referred to as calamanco quilts: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/15999#:~:text=The%20top%20of%20this%20quilt,%22linsey%2Dwoolsey%22%20quilts.

Perhaps there is more material information through direct curatorial contact with these institutions. Good luck!

Jane Hammond

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On Dec 22, 2023, at 4:26 PM, Kathleen Kiefer <[log in to unmask]> wrote:



External Email - Exercise Caution

Rabbit Goody of Thistle Hill Weavers may have some insights. 

Kathleen Kiefer


On Fri, Dec 22, 2023 at 2:45 PM Ballard, Mary <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
Note: there are 2 parts to this message. Part 2 will be  3 additional photos
With permission from the original author of this message, I'm sending it out on the Textile Conservation Discussion List in the hopes one or more of you will have insights and experience as to the method of fabrication of the cloth and its glazed finish. Is a replica or a facsimile available for purchase anywhere?
Mary Ballard

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Conny Kristoffersson <[log in to unmask]>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2023 at 14:50
Subject: Question about textile...


Hi,

My name is Conny Kristoffersson and I'm currently in the project to make a special type of uniform from the early 18th century.
The lining in this uniform has a special type of woolen fabric.
A glossy, shiny, worsted wool used in more fancier uniforms and clothes, in Sweden this fabric is called "Rask" or "Chalon" - it was also used in various folk costumes from the 18 & 19th century.
Either much glossy or just minimal.
I attach some pictures if you would like to see.

Sadly, now days, no one knows how this fabric was treated to get this glossy and shiny look. Not even the most experienced textile knowers.
A handcraft that's been lost in history.

I'm sure countries abroad also used this fabric in some way but i have never seen any "formal name" for it since all countries have different names for different fabrics.
Some people think it was treated with either bees wax or resin in some way and then pressed into the fabric with heat- but beeswax has been tried with a bad result.

I've heard that a company in Germany and Italy produced this kind of fabric all the way to the 1980s but we have no more information there?

Do you know anything about this or do you have any clues? Maybe textile experts that you can forward me to?

Best regards,
Conny Kristoffersson